If
you ever pass to Hanoi in your Hanoi tour, don’t be lazy: set you alarm for
5am, wear your favourite pyjamas-like dress, and see the magic happening. Or
even make the magic happen yourself, because you are welcome to join any group
that you like – if there is a tutor/instructor you can give them a tip or a
contribution at the end of the session. But if you were there and did not go,
then please, lie to me and say that you never went to Hanoi.
Ever wonder where the
tangy herbs in that steaming morning bowl of pho bo (noodle
with beef) come from? Have you ever marveled at the color and variety of fruits
and vegetables on offer at the local wet market? You’ve only been up for
fifteen minutes, but the woman who’s just sold you a kilo of mangosteens has
been hard at work for hours.
Tucked away between Hanoi’s Old Quarter and the
Red River is the Long Bien night market. Vendors and middlemen begin gathering
here around two in the morning to snap up the best of the day’s incoming food.
When we arrived at about 4:30am to have a look
around and snap some photos, the frenzied activity was already in full swing.
Click here to see best time to visit Hanoi
We began our morning by climbing onto the Long
Bien Bridge, which affords a wonderful vantage point down into one corner of
the market. Designed by the famous Gustave Eiffel, the bridge was originally
finished in 1903. Further reconstruction was necessary during the American War
after numerous bombing raids. These days, this iconic landmark serves as a
crossing for bikes, motorbikes, and trains.
After a while we climbed down from the bridge to
get a closer look at the activities within. Buyers went from vendor to vendor
with baskets, pushcarts or motorbikes in search of the best quality at the best
price. Wave after wave of men and women with no time to waste nudged first but
pushed, if need be, to get through the thronging crowd.
Large trucks came in full and left empty. Their
payload was unloaded into covered areas where dozens of women crouch and sort
through the newly arrived produce. I was astounded by the quantity of oranges
piled in one room; never before had I been overpowered by the scent of orange
rind. In other areas, entire families sat among humongous piles of green
mangos. Money changed hands at a dizzying pace.
Eventually, we needed a break from the action.
The rising sun cast its first light, signalling the winding down of the day’s
activities. Away from the commotion, we encountered two men seated on small
plastic stools, engaging in gentle conversation over their morning tea. The
day’s business had drawn to a close and now was the time for that sweet moment
of repose after a morning of hard work.
As we climbed up the
gentle rise out of the market and onto Yen Phu, we were struck by how normal,
how commonplace, how quotidian all this activity truly is. Thanks
to the industrious individuals who bring food to and from the Long Bien Market
each day, Hanoi enjoys unbelievably fresh food, all for a good price.
Click here to see more about Hanoi street food.
Andrew Crichton
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