The celebration of Vietnamese Tet

1. The biggest and most important festival in year

The celebration of Vietnamese Tet

Vietnam’s most important and most cherished traditional festival, Tet, is the occasion which unites the Vietnamese who devote all their creative energy and resources to prepare for it, “eat” it and go all out to enjoy the fun, food, and festivities associated with it. The word Tet is a distortion of the word Tet, meaning festival. The full name, Tet Nguyen Dan, Festival of the first morning of the year, refers to the beginning of the lunar year which falls between the winter solstice and spring equinox.

The celebration of Vietnamese Tet

The lunar calendar is divided into twelve months of either 2( or 30 days, but every four year, in order to catch up with the solar calendar, there is a leap of 13 months. Due to Tet this discrepancy between the two calendars, Tet does not fall on the same day every year in the solar calendar.

The Vietnamese twelve year cycle follows the Chinese zodiac: rat, buffalo (ox for the Chinese), tiger, cat (rabbit for the Chinese) dragon, snake, horse, goat money, rooster and pig.

The celebration of Vietnamese Tet

Opening of hearts and minds: Tet is the sole time of the year when the usually discreet Vietnamese society opens its heart, mind and cooking skills for all to see. Embodied in both its ceremony and essence is the whole spectrum of Vietnamese mythology, the entire concept of one’s place in the family, the universe And in relation to the ancestors, mixture of  Buddhism, Taoism, Confucianism, the three current of religion Which have blended with The original Vietnamese animistic beliefs and ancestor worship, to form the unique religious fusion adhered to by today’s Vietnam.

2. Tet traditional customs

 Tet rites Begin a week before New Year’s Day. On the 23^rd of the 12th month, a ceremony Is held at home in honor of the Tao Quan ( god of the hearth) where offerings of Fresh fruits, cooked food, paper models of a stork, a horse, a car, a pair of mandarin Boots and a ceremonial dress. It’s time for Tao Quan to return to the kingdom of heaven and present their annual report on the state of earthly matters and the Vietnamese family to the emperor of Jade before returning to earth on New Year Ever

The celebration of Vietnamese Tet

When Tao Quan takes his annual week long Journey to Heaven, the Vietnamese believe their home has been left without protection and look for ways to guard themselves against an invasion of bad spirits. The erect a Cay Neu ( signal tree) very high bamboo pole with a Khanh, a sonorous clay tablet and a piece of yellow cloth attached to the top, in front of the home. The origin of this custom are expounded in a story which goes back to the birth of the Vietnamese nation when the Vietnamese were constantly threatened by malevolent spirits. Lord Buddha took compassion on them and one day descended from Nirvana to visit them. He was immediately surrounded by all kinds of devils with whom he struck up a deal for a small piece of land in exchange for precious stones, gold and silver which he laid before them. When the devils asked him the size of the piece of land he had in mind, Buddha told them it would be as large as his gown. The devils agreed to this thinking they had struck a very good deal but when lord Buddha dropped his gown it spread as far and wide as the territory of Vietnam. The devils were furious, but the deal has been made. Lord Buddha then advised the Vietnamese: “At the end of the year, when you invite your ancestors to your home for Tet, the Devils may mingle with them. You must erect a high bamboo pole flying my emblem on a piece of cloth in front of your house to prevent the devils from coming to disturb you while you are enjoying Tet and your union with your ancestors.”

The celebration of Vietnamese Tet

The custom of erecting a Cay Neu in front of the house during Tet is still observed in parts of the countryside, But has to a great extent died out in the cities where perhaps T.V antennas serve the same purpose.

With the malevolent spirits frightened away by the Cay Neu, The Vietnamese set their mind to things material and prepare the Banh Chung, Tet’s traditional glutinous rice cakes with a stock of these and food enough to last a Week, the Vietnamese can give full heart and soul to decorating their homes In red and gold.

Another indispensable feature, even for the poorest families, is a branch of peach tree blossom during Tet, Flower markets selling a wonderful array of flowers spill out into the streets of Hanoi and in Northern Vietnam . In southern and central Vietnam, peach blossom is replaced by Canh Mai, a branch of yellow apricot blossom.

The celebration of Vietnamese Tet

With all these precautions Taken, the Vietnamese calmly await the arrival of spring. The first day of Tet is always reserved for the worship of ancestors who are ceremoniously welcomed back from heaven on New Year ’s Eve during the GIao Thua, the transition between the old and the new year. Elaborately prepared food offerings together with the perfume of burning sandal wood, incense await the ancestors at the altar. At the midnight on the last day Of the old Year, all human problems, earthly worries, war, revolution, political intrigue and Commercial transactions are left behind. A temporary general truce is declared between human beings and spirits

The celebration of Vietnamese Tet

All acts performed all events whether favorable or unfavorable which take Place on the first day of Tet are believed to affect the course of one’s life for the year ahead.

The first sound heard in the New Year is most important And Everyone Try to detect it besides that of the firecracker. A cock crow signals hard work and bad harvest. The lowing of buffalo heralds a year of sweat and toil and dog barking signifies a year of confidence and trust. Worst of all is the cry of an owl, a warming of coming epidemic and calamity for the whole community.
The fist visitor to the home has to be a happy man, a man of virtue. This can be arranged before Tet in a discreet manner, but those who don’t want to take any chances will leave home at midnight and return a minute later.

The celebration of Vietnamese Tet

 Other superstitious belief hold that one should not sew as to do so would mean hardship for the whole year; so sweep the floor as this could chase away the Than Tai, the God of wealth who just may happen to be on the premises. One must absolutely not curse, get angry, use Vulgar words, or break glasses, as all these inharmonious acts attract the malediction of bad spirits.

The celebration of Vietnamese Tet

One of the most important elements in celebrating Tet, are Cau Doi (Parallel sentences written in traditional black Chinese characters on red paper. These are hung in the center of the home as a good wish for the year. In Many families, after gifts of money wrapped in red paper are exchanged, tradition requires that the father read his children’s Tu vi (horoscope) hopefully to see their future for the coming Year is an auspicious one.

The celebration of Vietnamese Tet

On the third day of Tet, the family bids their ancestors farewell. The Fourth Day is usually the day for Khai An, opening the seal, when government offices Reopen For business. One the seventh day, the Cay Neu is taken down as Tao Quan and all the benevolent spirits have returned to earth to watch over the destiny of The human race and the Vietnamese people.

 The ceremonial Tet of flowers and special foods is Now over and Tet of fun and merrymaking begins. Fairs and festivals of all sizes take place throughout the country particularly in north Vietnam, until the end of the third month, which marks the Beginning of summer.

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Vietnamese Cuisine

In food as in death, we feel the essential brotherhood of mankind”

A Vietnamese Saying

A typical Vietnamese family meal

Vietnam’s cuisine is very much a reflection of its culture and contact with other cultures. Rice, com in Vietnamese is the main staple of the diet and the basic of the country’s agriculture. The year of Chinese influence and occupation is evident in the use of the chopsticks and the tendency to eat plain white rice separately with other foods rather than mixing them together. However, the similarities end there. The extensive use of nuoc man, fresh herbs- lemon grass, basil, coriander, mint, spear parsley, laksa leaf, fresh lime- and particularly all the spices used in Southeast asia in Vietnamese cuisine lend it a subtlety of flavor which set it apart. Virtually every meal is accompanied by a delicious soup.

Nem Ran - Fried spring roll

The later French influence brought with it the baguette and pate sold in the markets and roadside stalls today and an appreciation of French food, shared by visitors and locals alike in the country’s numerous Vietnamese-run French Restaurants. Vietnam’s 3000km of coastline, innumerable rivers and waterway provide an ample and varied supply of fresh fish and seafood all year round. Fresh and salt water fish, shellfish and crustaceans are eaten as the main source of protein in delicious dishes like cha ca, barbecued fish and various minced fish meat cakes. 

Nuoc Cham - Dipping sauce

The national condiment, nuoc man, a fermented fish sauce, imparts its fine piquancy to practically every dish and to a large extent replaces salt, which lacks nuoc man’s nutritive and flavor-enhancing properties. By adding a few other ingredients, nuoc man is transformed into a delicious sauce- nuoc cham- that accompanies and complements every meal. Every cook has his or her own formula, but usually it consists of fresh chili, fresh lime juice, garlic and sugar. This is used as a dipping sauce for variety of snack type foods, for example the popular nem ran – small roll of minced pork, prawn, crab meat, fragrant mushrooms and vegetables wrapped in thin rice paper and deep fried until crisp. Before eating, the nem ran is rolled in a lettuce leaf with fresh herbs and dipped in the nuoc man.

Nuoc Cham - Dipping sauce

Many South Vietnamese delicacies are served with raw, leafy vegetables, bean sprouts and herbs and wrapped up in a do-it-yourself manner. This custom, far from being-Chinese is probably indigenous to the area. The southerners, living in a tropical area, use more coconut milk in their cooking and traditionally prefer their food spicier than people in the colder north. But despite their difference, north and South Vietnam share many tastes in common.

The Vietnamese have created very innovative dishes using pork, chicken and beef sometimes combining meat together with fish and seafood.

Whether it be boiled, barbecued, grilled stewed or fried, Vietnamese cuisine is a skilful and delicious  different blend of many unique flavors, textures and influences. Variety is certainly the spice of life and cuisine in Vietnam.

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The Old Quarter – The Soul of Hanoi

Hanoi Old Quarter

1. History of Old Quarter

Hanoi was, and still is, locally referred to as the city of Ba Muoi Sau Pho Phuong, 36 streets and districts. In fact, there are more – some 160 of them- so the question arises: why the number 36?

The discrepancy arises from two sources. First of all, the word Pho which refers to commercial streets and Phuong meaning districts which refers to both professional guilds and administrative districts, helped to cause the initial confusion.

This was later compounded by two folk poems popular throughout the country in the country in the late 19^th century. These both praised the beauty of Thang Long ( Ascending Dragon) Hanoi’s ancient name, referring to it as the city of Ba Muoi Sau Pho Phuong, 36 streets and districts, although at the time Hanoi already had 60 commercial streets, 60 professional guilds and 40 administrative districts.

However this misrepresentation was not simple a casual error. Many people believed that 36, the exact number of streets in Hanoi from the 15^th to 18^th centuries, was a lucky number and no-body among the superstitious Vietnamese, particularly the poets, who further propagated the discrepancy, wanted to change it.

Bach Ma temple

Today, walking through the streets in this ancient heart of the old city, you will find they still bear the name of the trades and commodities plied in them many generations ago and in some the tradition carries on to this day: cotton, sail, rice, sugar, vermicelli ( hang bun), Jute ( Hang Gai) .

Thus the name, ba Muoi SAu Pho Phuong, like the name of the old streets recalling the professional guilds, national heroes and heroines, historic places and political leaders, remains unchanged to this day.

2. Hanoi old quarter now

The old quarter

Exploring the maze of back streets is fascinating; some streets open up while others narrow down into a warren of smaller alleys. The area is known for its tunnel, or tube, houses – so called because their small frontages hide very long rooms. These tunnel houses were developed to avoid taxes based on the width of their frontage onto the street. By feudal law, houses were also limited to two storeys and, out of respect for the king, could not be taller than the Royal Palace. These days there are taller buildings (six to eight storeys high) but there are no real high rise buildings.

Some of the more specialized streets include Pho Hang Quat which has red candlesticks, funeral boxes, flags and other temple items; and Pho Hang Gai which is somewhat more glamorous with silk, embroidery, lacquer ware, paintings and water puppets – the silk sleeping bag liners and elegant Vietnamese ao dai are very popular with travellers. Finally, no trip to the Quarter would be complete without a trip to Dong Xuan market, on Pho Hong Khoi and Pho Dong Xuan, which was rebuilt after a 1994 fire.

A stroll through the historic Hanoi Old Quarter can last anywhere from a few minutes to the better part of a day, depending on your pace and how well you navigate the increasing motor traffic plaguing the streets. However long, or whatever detours you might take, the following course will provide you with a good dose of Vietnamese culture, and some insight into the country’s long history.

A logical starting point is the Ngoc Son Temple in the northern end of Hoan Kiem Lake. After crossing back over the bright red Huc Bridge, stop for a quick look at the Martyrs’ Monument, erected to those who died in fighting for Vietnam’s independence. Head north on Pho Hang Dau past the Water Puppet Theatre (see the ‘Punch & Judy in a Pool’ boxed text in this chapter) and you’ll soon be surrounded by shoe shops selling every shape, size and style, demonstrating how serious Hanoians are about their footwear. Crossing over Pho Cau Go, pop into the colourful flower market which occupies the narrow eastern terminus of Pho Gia Nhu.

Back on Pho Hang Be; continue north to the ‘T’ intersection with Pho Hang Bac. Near here are several shops that carve intricate gravestones (most bearing an image of the deceased) by hand. A short detour north on Pho Ma May will lead you to the Memorial House at number 87 (see the main text entry earlier in this chapter), an exquisite Chinese merchant’s home that was recently restored and opened as a museum.

Return to Pho Hang Bac and head west past a strip of snazzy jewellery shops, then right onto Pho Hang Ngang past a row of clothing shops, and right again onto Pho Hang Buom; this will take you past the small Bach Ma Temple (White Horse Temple). As you pass the pagoda, with its red funeral palanquin, look for its white-bearded temple guards, who spend their days sipping tea. Legend has it that Ly King used the pagoda to pray for assistance in building the city walls because they persistently collapsed, no matter how many times he rebuilt them. His prayers were finally answered when a white horse appeared out of the temple and guided him to the site where he could safely build his walls. Evidence of his success is still visible at Cua O Quan Chuong, the quarter’s well-preserved Old East Gate at the eastern end of Pho Hang Chieu, near the intersection with Pho Tran Nhat Duat.

Hanoi Old Quarter

Head west, back along Pho Hang Chieu past a handful of shops selling straw mats and rope to reach one of the most interesting streets, Pho Hang Ma (literally ‘counterfeit street’), where imitation ‘ghost money’ is sold for burning in Buddhist ceremonies – it even has US$5000 bills! Loop around and follow your ears to the sounds of skilful blacksmiths pounding away on metal on the corner of Pho Lo Ren and Pho Thuoc Bac. Moving south on Pho Hang Duong, head right past the towel shops onto Pho Lan Ong, a fantastic row of herb sellers filling the street with succulent aromas.

Finally, head south past the tin box makers (opposite the mirror shops) on Pho Hang Thiec, then left toward the interesting shops selling Buddhist altars and statues along Pho Hang Quai. Time permitting, loop around and zigzag west over to check out the leather shops along Pho Ha Trung, working east again to end the tour at the superb, neo-Gothic St Joseph Cathedral (see the main text entry earlier in this chapter). If you’re feeling a bit knackered from the walk, a few steps from the church along Pho Nha Tho there is an alluring cluster of stylish restaurants and cafes.

Although many of the streets no longer sell the products after which they were named, some still do. Today, the Old Quarter has become the unique classical feature of Hanoi, and the inspiration of numerous writers, poets, and painters, and one of the desired tourist destinations in Hanoi.

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List of Favorite Hanoi Restaurants

Hanoi Food

It would be impossible to get starved in Hanoi - the centre of sensational cuisine. No matter where you come from, an array of restaurants providing foreign fares and Vietnamese cuisines are always ready to serve all your needs. Even vegans also find Vietnam an ideal destination for an appetizing vegan meal. It is not hard to find a high end Vietnamese and foreign restaurants that could offer you either local specialties or cuisines of your home country either. But perhaps, as part of the adventure, why don’t you enjoy authentic Vietnamese fares as the way the local does, trying squat stool places at street side and humble restaurants in narrow alleys? This is the best way to belly up to real local cuisine and enjoy your trip the most. Plus, nowhere in Vietnam could you easily savor delicious cuisine from three main regions of Vietnam as Hanoi and nowhere in Hanoi could you easily find a decent restaurant as the Old quarter.

Get lost and find your own local favourite, and do not forget to share with me too.

1. Bún Chả from Bún Chả 34 Hàng Than

Luckily, the address is right there in the name (fairly common in Hanoi, thankfully).  The place is full of scooters at lunchtime, and they even valet-park your two-wheeler if needed!  The tree in front studded with nails and hung with keys is a good way to check that you're in the right place.

Bun Cha

Bún chả is perhaps the greatest of Hanoi's dishes.  You'll get a bowl of beautifully grilled pork, some in patty form wrapped in a leaf and some as sliced grilled meat.  This will be floating in a rich fish sauce that also contains some slices of either green mango or green papaya.  You'll also get a large hank of rice noodles that will likely be at least partially stuck together, and an assortment of fresh herbs.  (This dish wouldn't be very Vietnamese without the pile of herbs!)

An order of fried crab spring rolls (nem cua bể) are a traditional accompaniment that you can take or leave. We take.

 To eat, grab some noodles and herbs and mix them into your fish sauce pork.  Add pickled garlic or chiles, if you'd like. Eat. Add more herbs and noodles. Eat. Et cetera. Fun and interactive, with each bite being a different combination of crunchy, funky, herby, spicy, meaty, and crisp. 

Bún Chả 34 Hàng Than, 34 Hàng Than, Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi.

2. Phở Tái Nạm from Phở Gia Truyền

Hanoi Phở is very different from that of Saigon.  It's lower on the veggies, and the broth isn't generally as heavy on the sweet spices.  Basically, I didn't think I was going to like it very much.  Phở Gia Truyền (which seems to mean "old-style Phở") proved me wrong.

Pho

 Small menu, usually a great sign in places like this. Your choices: Beef soup. Rare flank steak (tai nam). Rare steak (tai). Or well-done steak (think brisket - chin). Add a chicken egg, trung ga, if you want.  Yes, again, we want.  Also, they had the pot of broth going over these coals when we walked in. 

And the Phở?  Delicious. Perfect ratio of broth to noodles to meat. I love a good stocky soup in the morning. Kick it up with some chilies to get a good healthy sweat going, perfect if you may have overimbibed the night before.

Phở Gia Truyền is on 49 Bat Dan St,  Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi. Careful, as this is an early in the day dish; they can sell out by noon.

3. Bánh cuốn from Bánh cuốn gia truyền

Bánh cuốn are one of my favorite Vietnamese dishes.  They're free-form dumplings, or tiny rolls, made with fresh rice paper stuffed with a ground pork and mushroom mix.  Each tapas-size sharing plate comes topped with dried shallots and fresh sprigs of cilantro, and you can (and should) order some meats on the side to add texture.  We chose a small plate of Chinese sausage and shrimp cake.

Banh cuon

 Read more about Salted or Sugared Dry Fruits - A specialty of Hanoi

Bánh cuốn gia truyền does these beautifully. The rice paper is perfectly formed and perfectly fresh, just strong enough to hold the fillings together while being soft enough to offer your teeth very little resistance. Their nước chấm, or fish sauce dip, is one of the best we tasted in our three weeks in Vietnam; perfumed with ca cuongextract (I'll go into that more later) and with just the right amount of citrus.

We went for dinner, but I'm pretty sure they're open for lunch as well.

Bánh cuốn gia truyền is at 14 Hàng Gà, Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi.

4.  Miến Lươn from Nhà Hàng Miến Lươn

Lươn means eel in Vietnamese, and that's what you'll get here - teeny fried eels served in a variety of ways, from soups to porridges to atop glass noodles. The menu is short and sweet, like many of the places we enjoyed in Hanoi.

Mien luon

Logan and I both ordered the Miến xào lươn, on Gastronomer's brilliant recommendation. This is glass noodles, topped with fried tiny eels, bean sprouts, and egg, garnished with those savory fried/dried shallots, fresh cucumber, and purple shiso.  It also came with a side bowl of rich, thick broth.

Nice and eel-crunchy and fresh and herby and soft with noodles - and of course with lots of side sauces and fruits to customize your dish! 

Nhà Hàng Miến Lươn is at 87 Hàng Điếu, Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi.

5. Bun Rieu and Bun Oc

Bun rieu

These slightly sour/sweet/spicy, crab or snail soups are very popular on the streets of Hanoi. They make a good breakfast, full of revitalizing liquid and just enough protein to start your day off right.

I just didn't care too much for the version we had. Too much fishy crab pastey, not enough sour spicy - the balance seemed a bit off to me.  But it's worth a try at one of the many places that line the streets. Please let us know if you find a version you really like!

We had our bun oc and bun rieu at 34 Cầu Gỗ, Hoàn Kiếm District.

6. Xôi from Xôi Yến

Xoi Yen

Xôi is a super simple dish - it's meats of your choice on a bed of sticky rice.  I liked the Xoi Xeo, which is topped with mung bean paste and dried shallots as well as meat.

Simple, cheap, and filling, and while we were there a mobile karaoke dude set up in front, adding just that little extra touch of special.

Xôi Yến is at 35B Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoàn Kiếm, Hanoi.

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